Lotus stem (kamal kakdi / nadru)

The rhizome of the lotus, sold in linked segments and sliced into perforated rounds. Kashmiri nadru yakhni and nadru monje, Punjabi bhein, Sindhi kamal kakdi, and fried crisp as a starter. Starchy and firm, and unlike most vegetables it stays crunchy through boiling and frying — that texture is the reason to cook it.

Choosing it

Firm, pale, unbroken segments with the ends still sealed by mud. Open ends let silt into the channels and it never fully washes out. Smooth skin; grey or spongy patches mean it has been out of the water too long.

Storing it

Wrap unpeeled and refrigerate up to a week. Once peeled and sliced it browns quickly, so hold the rounds in water with a squeeze of lemon until they go in the pan.

If you cannot get it

Fresh in North Indian markets through winter and patchily elsewhere in India. Outside India, easiest in East and Southeast Asian grocers, fresh or frozen. Frozen slices are already blanched and need no boiling.